How to Clean Leaf Stains off Driveway

1>How to Clean Leaf Stains off Driveway1>

The changing colors of fall leaves are truly beautiful but the leaves can leave stains on your driveway so you might want to know how to clean leaf stains off driveway. On a gorgeous, clear fall day, bundle yourself (and your kids) up warmly and head outside to get to work.

2>Teach your kids how to clean leaf stains off driveway!2>

 

3>How to Clean Leaf Stains off Driveway:3> 3>Cleaning:3>

Cleaning the leaf stains off your driveway is a great job that kids can do. Rake or sweep any leaves and debris off the area you are planning on cleaning. Periodically, take time to jump in the piles of leaves with your kids! Dispose of the leaves in compost or green waste. Use a hose with high water pressure to spray off the surface dirt. Sprinkle some laundry detergent with bleach or bleach alternative onto the driveway stains. You may find powdered laundry detergent works better than liquid laundry detergent because of its scouring ability but either type of detergent works. Let the detergent sit on the stains for a few minutes then proceed to scrub the area with a heavy duty shop broom or scrub brush.

 

3>Rinsing:3>

Use the hose with high water pressure to rinse the area, taking off the soap and dirt, and stain. Be careful not to clog up storm drains with leaves at the end of your driveway or on your street

3>The Rest of the Driveway:3>

You may find that the cleaned area really stands out from the rest of the driveway. You may wish to clean your entire driveway by hosing it down, sprinkling laundry detergent all around, scrubbing the driveway then rinsing.

You can now relax and enjoy the lovely reds, oranges and yellows in your trees and all around you, now you know how to clean leaf stains off driveway.

 

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House Exterior

Fall rains, and potentially imminent snow can be a very serious cause for concern. Proper drainage around the foundation of a house is important, as is the protective envelope of the building itself, including the roof.

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It is most logical to begin your inspection from the roof, down to the ground.
The roof :
The vast majority of residential roofs are either a single peak roof, or a combination of multiple peaks. Most residential roofs are protected with asphalt shingles, cedar shakes, tile (and concrete), or slate. To a lesser extent there are also flat roofs, and metal clad roofs.
You are likely already aware of any leaks in your roof from water dripping into your house, or from the attic inspection. In getting onto your roof, use only an approved ladder, and be sure to take as many safety precautions as possible. (Setting up at the lowest point, using a 1 to 4 ratio for the angle, having a spotter, etc) Avoid walking on the roof as much as possible. This is often necessary, however it is much more likely to cause damage to the roofing material. The most common places for water to penetrate a roof are in valleys where two roofs meet, at the bottom of the roof near the gutters, and around vents, chimneys, skylights, or near flashings found where the roof butts up against a second or third floor exterior wall.
If you are trying to repair damaged asphalt shingles, this is something that the average house owner can do themselves. There is a lot of information on doing this repair, but a straight forward step by step instruction can be found at Do-it-yourself.com. Repairs for slate, tile, cement, cedar shakes, metal or flat roofs are best handled by a professional contractor.
Mildew can also become a problem on shake and asphalt roofs. 3M makes a product that prevents mildew from attaching to asphalt shingles, and there are cleaners available for shake roofs, however both of these jobs are best handled by a professional roofing contractor.
While on your roof, it is also wise to check and lubricate attic (whirly bird) vents, and to inspect exhaust vents for plumbing, furnace, hot water heaters, and chimney’s. Check that these are not blocked, and that the roofing material is not damaged where it meets the flashing. Check the tension of guide wires, if any, for high chimney’s.
Siding:
Houses have many types of protective envelopes on the exterior walls. Siding, singles, stucco, slate, brick, stone, cement and metal cover almost all homes. Depending on where you live, the northern exposure usually receives the most damage from moisture and weathering. Because of limited exposure to the sun, mildew tends to grow on North faces, which can lead to rot, and premature failure of many wood and stucco envelopes. Excessive mildew should be brushed off, and the surface should be washed. An excellent environmentally friendly product is made by Biowash, and is available at most home centers.
When checking wooden aspects of house exteriors, the paint is the primary protection from the elements. Check for peeling, bubbling, and cracking. Identify area’s that will require repair and re-painting as soon as damage is found! Delaying repairs may result in subsequent damage that will require significant work to repair.
Foundation:
You should walk around the perimeter of your home to check the foundation. At no point should the grade rise above the concrete foundation. If you find the grade is against the wooden sill plate, it is likely you will have water damage and/or pest damage. The grade must be lowered, and sloped away from the house to help move water from around the foundation.
Water damage is the number one cause of exterior damage to homes. Catching it quickly (within one season) will prevent serious damage that would ultimately require more than just paint to repair.
Fall rains, and potentially imminent snow can be a very serious cause for concern. Proper drainage around the foundation of a house is important, as is the protective envelope of the building itself, including the roof.
It is most logical to begin your inspection from the roof, down to the ground.
16.67 degrees Celsius">2>The Roof :16.67 degrees Celsius">2>
The vast majority of residential roofs are either a single peak roof, or a combination of multiple peaks. Most residential roofs are protected with asphalt shingles, cedar shakes, tile (and concrete), or slate. To a lesser extent there are also flat roofs, and metal clad roofs.
You are likely already aware of any leaks in your roof from water dripping into your house, or from the attic inspection. In getting onto your roof, use only an approved ladder, and be sure to take as many safety precautions as possible. (Setting up at the lowest point, using a 1 to 4 ratio for the angle, having a spotter, etc) Avoid walking on the roof as much as possible. This is often necessary, however it is much more likely to cause damage to the roofing material. The most common places for water to penetrate a roof are in valleys where two roofs meet, at the bottom of the roof near the gutters, and around vents, chimneys, skylights, or near flashings found where the roof butts up against a second or third floor exterior wall.
If you are trying to repair damaged asphalt shingles, this is something that the average house owner can do themselves. There is a lot of information on doing this repair, but a straight forward step by step instruction can be found at Do-it-yourself.com. Repairs for slate, tile, cement, cedar shakes, metal or flat roofs are best handled by a professional contractor.
Mildew can also become a problem on shake and asphalt roofs. 3M makes a product that prevents mildew from attaching to asphalt shingles, and there are cleaners available for shake roofs, however both of these jobs are best handled by a professional roofing contractor.
While on your roof, it is also wise to check and lubricate attic (whirly bird) vents, and to inspect exhaust vents for plumbing, furnace, hot water heaters, and chimney’s. Check that these are not blocked, and that the roofing material is not damaged where it meets the flashing. Check the tension of guide wires, if any, for high chimney’s.
16.67 degrees Celsius">2>Siding:16.67 degrees Celsius">2>
Houses have many types of protective envelopes on the exterior walls. Siding, singles, stucco, slate, brick, stone, cement and metal cover almost all homes. Depending on where you live, the northern exposure usually receives the most damage from moisture and weathering. Because of limited exposure to the sun, mildew tends to grow on North faces, which can lead to rot, and premature failure of many wood and stucco envelopes. Excessive mildew should be brushed off, and the surface should be washed. An excellent environmentally friendly product is made by Biowash, and is available at most home centers.
When checking wooden aspects of house exteriors, the paint is the primary protection from the elements. Check for peeling, bubbling, and cracking. Identify area’s that will require repair and re-painting as soon as damage is found! Delaying repairs may result in subsequent damage that will require significant work to repair.
16.67 degrees Celsius">2>Foundation:16.67 degrees Celsius">2>
You should walk around the perimeter of your home to check the foundation. At no point should the grade rise above the concrete foundation. If you find the grade is against the wooden sill plate, it is likely you will have water damage and/or pest damage. The grade must be lowered, and sloped away from the house to help move water from around the foundation.
Water damage is the number one cause of exterior damage to homes. Catching it quickly (within one season) will prevent serious damage that would ultimately require more than just paint to repair.

It is most logical to begin your inspection from the roof, down to the ground.The roof :The vast majority of residential roofs are either a single peak roof, or a combination of multiple peaks. Most residential roofs are protected with asphalt shingles, cedar shakes, tile (and concrete), or slate. To a lesser extent there are also flat roofs, and metal clad roofs.You are likely already aware of any leaks in your roof from water dripping into your house, or from the attic inspection. In getting onto your roof, use only an approved ladder, and be sure to take as many safety precautions as possible. (Setting up at the lowest point, using a 1 to 4 ratio for the angle, having a spotter, etc) Avoid walking on the roof as much as possible. This is often necessary, however it is much more likely to cause damage to the roofing material. The most common places for water to penetrate a roof are in valleys where two roofs meet, at the bottom of the roof near the gutters, and around vents, chimneys, skylights, or near flashings found where the roof butts up against a second or third floor exterior wall.If you are trying to repair damaged asphalt shingles, this is something that the average house owner can do themselves. There is a lot of information on doing this repair, but a straight forward step by step instruction can be found at Do-it-yourself.com. Repairs for slate, tile, cement, cedar shakes, metal or flat roofs are best handled by a professional contractor.Mildew can also become a problem on shake and asphalt roofs. 3M makes a product that prevents mildew from attaching to asphalt shingles, and there are cleaners available for shake roofs, however both of these jobs are best handled by a professional roofing contractor.While on your roof, it is also wise to check and lubricate attic (whirly bird) vents, and to inspect exhaust vents for plumbing, furnace, hot water heaters, and chimney’s. Check that these are not blocked, and that the roofing material is not damaged where it meets the flashing. Check the tension of guide wires, if any, for high chimney’s.Siding:Houses have many types of protective envelopes on the exterior walls. Siding, singles, stucco, slate, brick, stone, cement and metal cover almost all homes. Depending on where you live, the northern exposure usually receives the most damage from moisture and weathering. Because of limited exposure to the sun, mildew tends to grow on North faces, which can lead to rot, and premature failure of many wood and stucco envelopes. Excessive mildew should be brushed off, and the surface should be washed. An excellent environmentally friendly product is made by Biowash, and is available at most home centers.When checking wooden aspects of house exteriors, the paint is the primary protection from the elements. Check for peeling, bubbling, and cracking. Identify area’s that will require repair and re-painting as soon as damage is found! Delaying repairs may result in subsequent damage that will require significant work to repair.Foundation:You should walk around the perimeter of your home to check the foundation. At no point should the grade rise above the concrete foundation. If you find the grade is against the wooden sill plate, it is likely you will have water damage and/or pest damage. The grade must be lowered, and sloped away from the house to help move water from around the foundation.Water damage is the number one cause of exterior damage to homes. Catching it quickly (within one season) will prevent serious damage that would ultimately require more than just paint to repair.

17.78 degrees Celsius">0px;height:17.78 degrees Celsius">0px;line-height:17.78 degrees Celsius">0px;margin:17.78 degrees Celsius">0;padding:17.78 degrees Celsius">0;clear:both">

The Cheapo Gutter Protection System

We all know what water damage can do to your homes exterior, but it really hurts when the water makes its way into your house.

The exact thing just happened to me and caused me to pull up roughly 16.67 degrees Celsius">200 Sq/ft of hardwood floor to dry out my basement.

I really did not want to spend thousands of dollars on a gutter guard system and being a resourceful (cheap) guy it I knew deep in my gut I could come up with a much cheaper system.

This is the system I came up with. Now this system comes with all the usual disclaimers attached and as always, take any info dredged from the internet with a cautious eye. So far it is working fine but time will be the ultimate judge.

Let&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;s get on to it&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4554.44 degrees Celsius">8230;..

16.67 degrees Celsius">2" src="http://74.8617.44 degrees Celsius">.6017.66 degrees Celsius">.213/~howtocle/wp-content/uploads/16.67 degrees Celsius">2009/11.11 degrees Celsius">12/gutters16.67 degrees Celsius">2.jpg" alt="gutters16.67 degrees Celsius">2" width="14.44 degrees Celsius">62.22 degrees Celsius">144" height="188" />Start out with a product called Gutter Guard, If you can&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;t find the exact brand I&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;m sure you can find others I&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;m sure stores like Home Depot have others Basically its a 15.24 centimetres">14.44 degrees Celsius">6 in wide by 14.44 degrees Celsius">6.1 metres">16.67 degrees Celsius">20 ft long with plastic mesh.

The way this is supposed to be used is would not work with me as I have hidden gutters and they are much wider then conventional gutters. So I had to create a new system.

So I came up with this..

15.56 degrees Celsius">4" src="http://74.8617.44 degrees Celsius">.6017.66 degrees Celsius">.213/~howtocle/wp-content/uploads/16.67 degrees Celsius">2009/11.11 degrees Celsius">12/gutters15.56 degrees Celsius">4.jpg" alt="gutters15.56 degrees Celsius">4" width="16.67 degrees Celsius">215.56 degrees Celsius">41" height="152" />Roll the mesh into a tube as described below, you can use either Zap Straps or twist ties if you are stuck.

This will create a tube that is about 1 1/16.67 degrees Celsius">2″ wide. Just make the the length of the gutter you are protecting.

****another good idea is to put the wire mesh bulb in the drain hole as this help keep the leaves out.

NOW WHAT!!!!

1" src="http://74.8617.44 degrees Celsius">.6017.66 degrees Celsius">.213/~howtocle/wp-content/uploads/16.67 degrees Celsius">2009/11.11 degrees Celsius">12/gutters1.jpg" alt="gutters1" width="16.67 degrees Celsius">215.56 degrees Celsius">40" height="151" />

Well the next part is pretty easy , just place the tube in the gutter and secure it down somehow, I just used metal strapping I had lying around as this was an after thought for me.

The whole concept is based on the thought that as long as there is at least a tunnel leading to the drain hole then then I should be able to avoid more overflowing gutters. Of course the best method is just keeping them clean. I was caught this year unprepared. I have many broad leafed trees that did a major dump during a wind storm and they completely filled some of my gutters, water streamed down the wall and right into a basement door.

Hopefully this little tip may help, I don&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;t claim to be an expert on gutters but this was a very cheap system and hopefully it may help you also.

We all know what water damage can do to your homes exterior, but it really hurts when the water makes its way into your house.
The exact thing just happened to me and caused me to pull up roughly 16.67 degrees Celsius">200 Sq/ft of hardwood floor to dry out my basement.
I really did not want to spend thousands of dollars on a gutter guard system and being a resourceful (cheap) guy it I knew deep in my gut I could come up with a much cheaper system.
This is the system I came up with. Now this system comes with all the usual disclaimers attached and as always, take any info dredged from the internet with a cautious eye. So far it is working fine but time will be the ultimate judge.
Let get on to it&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4554.44 degrees Celsius">8230;..
Start out with a product called Gutter Guard, If you can&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;t find the exact brand I&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;m sure you can find others I&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;m sure stores like Home Depot have others Basically its a 15.24 centimetres">14.44 degrees Celsius">6 in wide by 14.44 degrees Celsius">6.1 metres">16.67 degrees Celsius">20 ft long with plastic mesh.
The way this is supposed to be used is would not work with me as I have hidden gutters and they are much wider then conventional gutters. So I had to create a new system.
So I came up with this..
Roll the mesh into a tube as described below, you can use either Zap Straps or twist ties if you are stuck. This will create a tube that is about 1 1/16.67 degrees Celsius">2″ wide. Just make the the length of the gutter you are protecting. ****another good idea is to put the wire mesh bulb in the drain hole as this help keep the leaves out.
NOW WHAT!!!!
Well the next part is pretty easy , just place the tube in the gutter and secure it down somehow, I just used metal strapping I had lying around as this was an after thought for me.
The whole concept is based on the thought that as long as there is at least a tunnel leading to the drain hole then then I should be able to avoid more overflowing gutters. Of course the best method is just keeping them clean. I was caught this year unprepared. I have many broad leafed trees that did a major dump during a wind storm and they completely filled some of my gutters, water streamed down the wall and right into a basement door.
Hopefully this little tip may help, I don&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;t claim to be an expert on gutters but this was a very cheap system and hopefully it may help you als

We all know what water damage can do to your homes exterior, but it really hurts when the water makes its way into your house.The exact thing just happened to me and caused me to pull up roughly 16.67 degrees Celsius">200 Sq/ft of hardwood floor to dry out my basement.I really did not want to spend thousands of dollars on a gutter guard system and being a resourceful (cheap) guy it I knew deep in my gut I could come up with a much cheaper system.This is the system I came up with. Now this system comes with all the usual disclaimers attached and as always, take any info dredged from the internet with a cautious eye. So far it is working fine but time will be the ultimate judge.Let get on to it&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4554.44 degrees Celsius">8230;..Start out with a product called Gutter Guard, If you can&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;t find the exact brand I&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;m sure you can find others I&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;m sure stores like Home Depot have others Basically its a 15.24 centimetres">14.44 degrees Celsius">6 in wide by 14.44 degrees Celsius">6.1 metres">16.67 degrees Celsius">20 ft long with plastic mesh.The way this is supposed to be used is would not work with me as I have hidden gutters and they are much wider then conventional gutters. So I had to create a new system.So I came up with this..Roll the mesh into a tube as described below, you can use either Zap Straps or twist ties if you are stuck. This will create a tube that is about 1 1/16.67 degrees Celsius">2″ wide. Just make the the length of the gutter you are protecting. ****another good idea is to put the wire mesh bulb in the drain hole as this help keep the leaves out.NOW WHAT!!!!Well the next part is pretty easy , just place the tube in the gutter and secure it down somehow, I just used metal strapping I had lying around as this was an after thought for me.The whole concept is based on the thought that as long as there is at least a tunnel leading to the drain hole then then I should be able to avoid more overflowing gutters. Of course the best method is just keeping them clean. I was caught this year unprepared. I have many broad leafed trees that did a major dump during a wind storm and they completely filled some of my gutters, water streamed down the wall and right into a basement door.Hopefully this little tip may help, I don&#15.56 degrees Celsius">4547.22 degrees Celsius">8217;t claim to be an expert on gutters but this was a very cheap system and hopefully it may help you als

Keeping Dirt Out

2>Stop Dirt In Its Tracks2>

Did you know that over 95% of all dirt found in your house comes from outside? Soil, dust, pollen, air pollution and many other sources get into your house and cause an endless cycle of cleaning, dusting and vacuuming. If it seems that you’re continually losing this battle to the elements why not do something proactive? We suggest you enlist the following three lines of defense!

First:

Keep the outside of your house as clean as possible. Does it not make sense to keep as much dirt as you can in the great outdoors before it enters your house? We can achieve this quite easily by keeping the areas near any entrances free of sand, dirt, small rocks and debris which is easily tracked into your house. By sweeping and cleaning your sidewalks, driveway, patio, porch, etc., on a regular basis, you will prevent a lot of indoor ‘after the fact’ cleaning.

Second:

Use entrance mats. Did you know that a good quality entrance mat can capture as much as a pound of dirt per square foot? This is much easier to remove from a mat than when it is spread through out your house. Use as many large, good quality, mats as possible, both indoors and outside. Also, clean them often and thoroughly.

Third:

Capture the dirt completely on the first effort. What this means is to use tools and procedures that collect and don’t just scatter dust and dirt. High filtration vacuum bags, treated dusters and dust mops, clean rags, clean wash water, clean wet mops : all these will make your cleaning more effective and longer lasting. Stopping dirt in its tracks is easier if you use the three lines of defense!

Keeping Dirt Out

2>Stop Dirt In Its Tracks2>

Did you know that over 95% of all dirt found in your house comes from outside?  Soil, dust, pollen, air pollution and many other sources get into your house and causes an endless cycle of cleaning, dusting and vacuuming. If it seems that you’re continually losing this battle to the elements why not do something proactive?  We suggest you enlist the following three lines of defense!

First:

Keep the outside of your house as clean as possible. Does it not make sense to keep as much dirt as you can in the great outdoors before it enters your house?  We can achieve this quite easily by keeping the areas near any entrances free of sand, dirt, small rocks and debris which is easily tracked into your house.  By sweeping and cleaning your sidewalks, driveway, patio, porch, etc., on a regular basis, you will prevent a lot of indoor ‘after the fact’ cleaning.

Second:

Use entrance mats.  Did you know that a good quality entrance mat can capture as much as a pound of dirt per square foot?  This is much easier to remove from a mat than when it is spread through out your house.  Use as many large, good quality, mats as possible, both indoors and outside. Also, clean them often and thoroughly.

Third:

Capture the dirt completely on the first effort. What this means is to use tools and procedures that collect and don’t just scatter dust and dirt. High filtration vacuum bags, treated dusters and dust mops, clean rags, clean wash water, clean wet mops:  all these will make your cleaning more effective and longer lasting.  Stopping dirt in its tracks is easier if you use the three lines of defense!