Blotting is the act of absorbing a stain with a dry absorbant towel such as a terry towel or even a paper towel (best using white towels so no colors from the the towel will run into the carpet or fabric you are blotting.) Blotting immediately after a spill or stain has occurred is the best way to combat stains. Blot by placing the towel over the stain. First fold your towel in quarters so you can flip over the towel a few times to get the maximum absorbancy of your towel.
Here is a tip submitted by Patty:
My brother got a red wine stain on a very expensive cotton sweater.
Thedrycleaners could not remove it. My mother (80 years old) took it outusing “Efferdent” for dentures and cold water. She soaked it (I’m notsure how long). Then washed in cold water as usual.
General Information :
Wood furniture cleaning products fall into a few basic categories.
Polishes: either aerosol or liquid; generally contain wax – usually carnuba – silicone agents for dust repelling and detergents. These products are mainly effective fro dust control and mild cleaning. Any surface enhancement – a glossier finish – is mainly cosmetic. Newer, well -finished furniture will not gain any luster, in fact, polishes can inhibit appearance with build-up, yellowing or faster re-soiling due to a tacky residue. The exception is for antique or older pieces, which cannot be re-finished properly. A regular program of waxing with carnuba/non silicone products will keep the wood properly conditioned.
Wood Cleaners: Mild soap based products designed especially for wood. Used in accordance with directions wood cleaners will effectively clean wood furniture of dust, lesser stains, fingerprints etc. Be careful to avoid over-wetting, vigorous rubbing and over-mixing.
Oil-Based Wood Cleaners: Containing high amounts of oil these products will clean and condition the wood. Some may also contain wax. Oil-based cleaners are most effective when the original finish has worn thin and bare wood is exposed.
Oil Refinishing: For teak, mahogany etc. some wood furniture is treated – rubbed – with oil on bare wood. These surfaces need a re-infusion of oil to keep them conditioned properly. Consult an expert – a furniture dealer – for the best product and program for your specific wood surface.
Using coaster, placemats, tablecloths is the best defense for your wood furniture. Wiping up any spills – especially liquids – right away is of paramount importance. Wood furniture needs to be dusted frequently and cleaned regularly. Mild detergent and a damp cloth are as effective as almost any commercial product. Commercial polishes, wood cleaners are necessary in only some cases. If in doubt, consult an expert.
Environmentally Friendly Solution :
Mixing a small amount of vinegar with an equal measure of olive oil is an effective cleaner for most wood surfaces.
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This question was submitted by Tammy;
“A pen got into the dryer, how do I remove the ink?”
Conveniently one of the Forum experts had the same thing happen to him not very long ago.
Tools & Techniques:
- Clean dry cleaning rags
- Multi use solvent
1. First do NOT run the dryer anymore, heat absolutely sets ink stains.
2. Using a clean dry cleaning rag wipe as much ink off as possible. If you catch it before the heat has set, then you have a good chance of total removal.
3. In my case there was an extreme amount of ink and I wiped what I could. Next I got progressively more aggressive with my cleaning compounds. I started by using a large towel and poured a mixture of warm water and dish soap on the towel and placed it in the drum in an attempt to have some of the ink soak into the towel since there was so much ink. I had marginal success with that, but I was able to get some off and especially were there were large amounts of ink.
4. Then I used a multi-use solvent designed to break down gum, glue, ink etc. Caution: Solvents are flammable, be sure the dryer is cool, and there is very good ventilation when working. Pouring the solvent on my clean dry white cleaning rags I slowly worked on my dryer drum, using numerous cleaning rags I was able to remove alot of the ink.
5. The problem I was having was ink under the agitators (usually plastic). The ink on the plastic came off well with the solvent, but ink had pooled under the agitators. I poured a general purpose cleaner along the edge and a fair bit of ink came out. I did not pour the solvent since I did not want to much flammable material to be used.
6. The key was I took my time and used alot of rags always pouring the solvent on them and removing as much ink as possible.
7. Now I had so much ink that I eventually used paint thinner to remove more ink. Now paint thinner is also very flammable so I used it with caution. I did not nor would I recommend running the dryer for at least 24 hours, waiting for all the vapor to dissipate first. This is why I did not pour the solvent directly into the drum.
8. Now all this took some time and effort and after it was all done I did not even get 100% of the ink removed only about 70% so I was a little frustrated. After about 24 hours I ran the dryer only on air fluff to be sure there was no vapor. And I washed and dried some work clothes to absorb any ink that may not have come off.
9. It has been a couple months now and it looks like a little more ink has come off but I have seen absolutely no ink on any clothes. To summarize be patient and realize that it probably will not be perfect and you will have to live with some ink stains on your dryer drum but overall it will have no impact on your dryers performance. I will NEVER again forget to remove my pens from my pocket (I hope…) this was one tough job. Good Luck
This solution for removing gum from your shoe requires that you either have this product already or that you purchase it. Take a can of WD-40 and spray the area of the shoe with the gum. Allow at least one minute to pass. Use a paper towel or rag to wipe away the gum and the oily spray from the shoe. Use a clean rag or paper towel to wipe the shoe a second time to remove any additional residue.