90
MPH Interstate funhouse mirrors
This
article is in response to a question from one of our visitors. She
wrote:
I
have an Airstream camper and I would like to know what is the best
for cleaning and polishing extérior Aluminium.
Aluminum
is great. It oxidizes which actually protects the metal beneath,
unlike iron based metals which will rust all the way through until
there is nothing left. I had no idea how dramatic the before and
after photographs where, until I look at one website.
Here is
one of the antique (1964) trailers that they restored:
 |
 |
|
Before
Polishing
|
Buffed
and ready to go! |
There are companies that actually
refinish these trailers, but I almost wanted to switch professions when I found
out what they charge! It costs $100 per foot!! (Including the bumper
in the measurement)
So your
25 foot trailer will cost $2500 to restore! Yikes! No wonder you
asked us! You can probably do it yourself, but expect to spend the
first two weeks (80 hours) of your vacation, and a couple hundred
dollars in supplies to get similar results.
The first
thing you need to determine, is if your trailer has a clear coating
on the aluminum. This would have been applied after, as it was not
included in the factory finish. The clear coating is good and bad.
It is good because it protects the aluminum, to keep the "new" look
for three or four years, until the clear coat itself begins to haze
and dull. Then it becomes bad, because there is no way to polish
the aluminum that is covered with this clear coat of paint, and
there is no easy way to remove the paint, either. If you find your
trailer is clear coated, you will need to source out a professional
company to help you.
How do
you know if it is coated? Buy a metal polish (I like Maguires) from
your local automotive detailer. It is usually sold in small tins
for refinishing aluminum wheels. Using a clean, dry rag, rub a little
onto the surface of your trailer in an inconspicuous spot. Continue
rubbing, and if there is no clear coat, the rag will begin to turn
black. Continuing buffing with a fresh clean dry area of the cloth,
this surface will polish to a brilliant shine. If it is clear coated,
the clear coat may look cleaner, however the rag will not turn black.
So now you
have a six inch circle polished on your trailer. Look at how big
your trailer is. Do you have the gumption to attack this your self?
You can
make it a bit easier on yourself, buy buying a good quality orbital
auto polisher. Not one that goes in your 12 Volt automotive outlet,
but a powerful 120 Volt unit. A more aggresive polishing wheel for
a drill or angle grinder will speed up work, but these can also
cause damage to the metal if you are not careful.
The first
step is to wash the trailer thoroughly, and rinse it off very well.
With the polisher you will need several different application and
buffing bonnets. You can probably easily attack a 3 foot square
section at a time, applying the polish with the first bonnet, and
continuing to change the bonnet when they become soiled. I expect
it would take at least half a dozen bonnets for each section, and
likely an hour or so to complete one 3 X 3 (9 square foot) section.
The bonnets can be laundered, however the heavily soiled ones may
not clean very well.
Once you
have polished the whole trailer, I would apply at least 2 coats
of quality automotive paste wax, buffing after each coat, to minimize
the damage from the elements. If your trailer is not as badly oxidized
as the one in the photo, you might be able to get away with a less
abrasive liquid metal polish (which is often marketed as a stainless
steel polish). Check with a janitorial supplier. The liquid will
be creamy or blue, and in a spray bottle (NOT an aerosol can). DO
NOT use a greasy clear petroleum liquid found in aerosol spray cans
(and marketed as stainless steel cleaner) it WILL NOT WORK!!!
If you do
undertake this big job, I hope you will also find time to go camping
this summer!
Good luck!
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